Porta Marzia and the Church of Sant'Ercolano
The BaglioniPalaces were destroyed (an enormous fortress was built onthe ruins - Rocca Paolina),
the ancient judiciary wasabolished and a pontefical governor enforced. For overthree centuries Perugia
was under the Church's dominion.The first awakenings of independence were observed withthe com of
Napoleon and the resulting turmoil. Fullparticipation in the movement towards freedom did not takeplace,
however, until the Risorgimento. After a number ofepisodes, the destruction of Rocca Paolina (1848),
theuprising of the city and the massacre of Perugia (1859),Vittorio Emanuele lI's soldiers occupied the
capital of Umbria(1860) and henceforth Perugia became part of the Kingdomof Italy. The history of the
city then became that of the Italian State.
Walk 1
FONTANA MAGGIORE. The fountain was erectedfor the official opening of an aqueduct which brought water from Monte
Paciano, about five miles away, to the centre. This enormous enterprise for the Medieval Communewas
completed in 1279 and within a period of two years(1277-1278)
the fountain was built and decorated.
Theworks were directed by the Benedictine brother, Fra Bevignate da Cingoli, a Venetian plumber by the
name of Boninsegna was employed and the sculptors Nicola and Giovanni Pisano executed the works in
marble and bronze.A Perugian Rosso Padellaio, casted the bronze bowl. Thefountain was inspired by the
syncretistic and encylopaedic philosophy of the Middle Ages but, unlike the religiousmonuments, a concept
of civil history prevails and was developed here more than in any other monument of the time. The lower tier
is divided into 50 marble panels inserted in the 25 sides of the polygon. The seguence beginswith the panel
showing the Original Sin, on the side facing the Episcopal Palace, and continues towards the Palazzodei
Priori with six other diptychs, inspired by the politicaland moral history.
LOGGE Dl BRACCIO. The archway set against thecathedral, was built by order of the famous Captain of fortuna,
Braccio, in 1423. A fifth arch on the right was destroyed. Fieravante Fieravanti from Bologna is believed tobe
the author of this monument, the first in Perugia to showthe Renaissance spirit.
CATTEDRALE. The new cathedral, dedicated to St.Laurence, was built during the 9th century and occupiedan area downhill -from the present building. In the 10th century it was rebuilt higher up covering the present transept.The building of the current church was started in 1347, theworks proceeded very slowly and were finally brought toan end in 1490. The external walls have been mostly leRin their uncompleted state; only a part was finished in thetypically Perugian red and white marble. On the side facing Piazza IV Novembre is a large 16th century door designed by Galeazzo Alessi, a small pulpit where Bernardino da Siena once stood, and higher up in a niche, a wooden crucifix, attributed to Eusebio Bastoni (in front of which Perugia laid down the keys to the city during the Salt War).On the outside steps there is a bronze statue of Julius lIl by Vincenzo Danti of Perugia (1555). In the main fagadefacing Piazza Dante is a door by P. Carattoli.
an altar by Pietro Carattoli (1735), then the Altar ofthe Pieta with the Pieta by Agostino di Duccio (1473) and
the Prophets by B. Buglioni (1487) followed by the Altarof the Gonfalone containing a large
lunette by Giannicoladi Paolo (1514) and the - Banner by Berto di Giovanni(1526). At the end,
near the entrance is the Cappella di Sant'Anello closed off by iron work.
MUSEO DEL DUOMO. BIBLIOTECA DOMINICINI.Both the Cathedral Museum and the library are found off the cloister. There are several important paintings displayedin the museum including a triptych by Meo da Siena, another by Agnolo Gaddi, a Pieta by Bartolomeo Caporali andthe fine painting of St. Honofrius, a masterpiece by the painter Luca Signorelli from Cortona (1484). Of great interestalso is the series of illuminated manuscripts dating fromthe 6th century onwards. The first cloister leads into a second, called the 'presbyteries' of the cathedral, with attractive 15th century open galleries.
PALAZZO DEI PRIORI. Go back into Piazza IV Novembre to the Priors' Palace which is one of the greatestexamples of the Commune buildings of the Gothic era. Itbegan with a People's Hall, designed on Lombard models,which was built up on the square, today this is known as
LA SALA DEI NOTARI. The Notaries' Hall is accessible from the stairs of Vaccara, originally of a different shape. Between 1320 and 1350 another building was inserted around this great hall built in 1290, incorporating theancient towers up to via dei Priori. Later, during the 15thcentury, it was further extended along the present corsoVannucci. In spite of the numerous additions, the Gothicstyle typical of the area remains uniform. This howeverdoes not mean that other stylistic contributions are not tobe recognised: for instance the beautiful three-mullionedwindows are related to the Venetian architecture. On the Piazza IV Novembre side, steps lead directly to the Notaries'Hall. Higher up on the wall, two 13th century bronzestatues, a Gryphon and a Lion, stand on brackets.
COLLEGIO DELLA MERCANZIA. To the right of themain door on corso Vannucci is the Merchants' Guild amagnificent hall with carved wood panelling from the firsthalf of the 15th century. The motif is obviously related tothe decorative patterns found in the Northern countries.
COLLEGIO DEL CAMBIO. To the left of the maindoor, after via dei Priori, is a group of three portals opening into the Exchange. Together with the already mentioned Art of the Merchants, that of the money Exchangersheld a fundamental role in the administration of public affairs and town governing. This can be testified by the unique beauty of the building adorned with important works of art. The'Sede dei Legisti (Lawyers' Room), with benchescarved by Giampiero Zuccari (1615), leads into the Saladell'Udienza del Cambio (Audience Room). The bencheswere completed by Antonio da Mercatello towards the endof the 15th century. The large wooden bench was carvedby Domenico del Tasso. The statue of Justice is attributed to Benedetto da Maiano. The frescoes were paintedby Pietro Vannucci from Citta dells Pieve, called the Perugino (1450-1523), who completed them around the year1500. Under the guidance of Francesco Maturanzio, Secretary of the decemvirate, they display an exquisitely humanistic expression representing the four Cardinal Virtues,personified by the great personalities of the Ancient World,the Nativity scene and the Transfiguration, then the Prophets and the Sibyls exhalting the harmony between Science and Virtue of the Old World and the Truth revealed byChristianity. On the vault are grotesques and allegoric figures of the planets in tondo. Note the self-portrait of Pietro in a false frame painted on the wall. Also in this samebuilding you can visit the small Cappella di San GiovanniBattista, frescoed between 1509 and 1528 with episodesof the life of St. John the Baptist by Giannicola di Paolo.
PALAZZO DEL CAPITANO DEL POPOLO. Nextdoor is the Palace of the Captain of the People also by Gasperino d'Antonio and Leone di Matteo (1472-1481). Of particular interest is the portal, which recaptures the motif ofthe Prior's Palace, and the town-crier's loggia built on deepbrachets. The building together with the Palace of the Studium houses the Courts of Justice. Next, through an opening in the building of the Assises, you pass onto the terrace of the indoor market from which there is a magnificent view over the Umbrian plains.
CHIESA DEL GESU. Continuing along the right side of Piazza Matteotti you reach the Church of Jesus (1572). The upper part of the facade was completed in recent times. The interior of the church is characterized by a fine carved ceiling and frescoes by A. Carloni (secondhalf of the 17th century). In the sacristy is a fresco by Stefano Pozzi. In the three oratories downstairs - Oratory ofthe Congregation of Nobles, of Artists and of Peasants -you see important works such as frescoes by Sermei, Martelli, Fabrizi, Carlone, Montanini and Gismondi and a carved and inlaid altar by Fortunato Tedesco, etc.
CHIESA DELLA COMPAGNIA DELLA MORTE.This beautiful church of the Confraternity of Death was designed on the Greek-cross pattern by Valentino Martelli (beginning of the 17th century) and bears a portal by Bino Sozi.In the interior is a canvas with the Trinity by Felice Pellegrini (1612).
POZO ETRUSCO. (For information on visits seethe guard at the well). Also in Piazza Piccinino is the spectacular Etruscan well, one of the most interesting monuments of that civilization which has only recently been explored and opened to the public. It descends about 35 metres (115 ft.) below road level and is more than 5 metres(16 ft.) wide. Its date of construction is much debated, however it is generally thought to have been built about thesame-time as the city walls.
WALK 2
S. ERCOLANO - S. DOMENICO - MUSEO ARCHEOLOGICO NAZIONALE DELL'UMBRIA - PORTA S. PIETRO-
S. PIETRO - GIARDINO DEL FRONTONE - S. COSTANZO - VIALE ROMA - ROCCA PAOLINA
CHIESA Dl SANT'ERCOLANO. This church wasbuilt on the site where the Bishop and defender of Perugia against the Goths was beheaded and first buried. Theoctagonal structure was built up against the ancient circuit of walls and is supported by blind arches opening outonto the wall. The double flight of Baroque steps leads upto the round-headed portal. Its Gothic structure in the interior has been cleverly adapted to the Baroque decorations which cover the walls and vaults. The frescoes areby Carlone and the paintings in the tribune by Salvucci.
There is also an interesting canvas by Garbi and stuccowork on the side altars. The High altar is a Roman sarcophagus (II cent.) with two lions mauling two horses.
There are various finds from necropolises in Perugia andsurrounding areas. Of particular interest is the Stele fromMonte Gualandro (6th century), the Sarcophagus of Sperandio (6th century), the bronze plates from San Mariano,the Cippus of Perugia, a lengthy inscription refering to legal matters written in Etruscan, from the 6th century, etc.One section is dedicated to objects originating from otherparts of Italy and abroad. Then there is the pre-historic section, comprising eight rooms plus the-great hall, part of SanDomenico Vecchio - an ancient Romanesque church nowincorporated into the Convent.
PORTA SAN PIETRO. Continue down corso Cavour which leads to the gate of St. Peter. The outside was designed by Agostino di Duccio of Florence (1475-1480). It isone of the most symbolical monuments of the Renaissance period in Perugia and was inspired by L.B. Albertisexamples such as the Malatesta Temple in Rimini. The upper part was never completed with a battlement.
SAN PIETRO. Continue down the wide street Borgo XX Giugno, and you arrive at the Basilica of St. deter,a famous Benedictine abbey with over 1,000 years of history which is closely connected to that of the city. It was here on monte Caprario that the Perugian nobleman, Pietro Vincioli, founded the church and the monastery on thesite where the Cathedral of Perugia stood as far back asthe 6th century, it is commonly believed that they were consacrated in 968. From those times remain, perhaps, thebasilica church section and the layout of the Inside columns, of which the capitals and shafts belong to the ancient period. Enter into the first cloister through the finedoor, both by V. Martelli. Here you can admire the belltower which is detached from the church itself: the lowerpart is from the 13th century, the upper (belfry and spire)from the 15th century and was designed by Bernardo Rossellino. The interior of the church is a true museum of pictures and sculptures from the 15th to the 19th centuriesincluding works by local and foreign artists. Note the finedecorations on the central nave with ten large canvas pain-tings depicting the Old and New Testaments (1592-1594)by Antonio Vassillachis, known as Aliense, a pupil of Tintoretto and Veronese, who also painted the enormous picture of the Saints of the Benedectine Order on the innerwall of the facade. The splendid wooden ceiling is workof Giovanni Pierantonio da Montepulciano (1564). In thechancel and the side aisles is a series of frescoes from thelate Mannerist period (Scilli Pecennini, Benedetto Bandiera,Giambattista Lombardelli, Giovani Schepers). On the wallsand over the altars are paintings from various periods bydifferent authors. Worth mentioning are, in the right aisle,St. Maurus raising a dead person by Cesare Sermei, above the second altar; two canvas paintings by Ventura Salimbeni, on the wall after the second and third altars; two canvases by G. Domenico Cerrini on the wall dividing theaisle and the presbytery. At the end of the right aisle is apainting of the Pieta and Saints by a Perugian artist alongthe lines-of Fiorenzo di Lorenzo (1469); on the wall adjacent the two chapels of Vibi and Ranieri are canvases bySassoferrato; inside these chapels, a marble altar by Mino di Fiesole (1473) and canvases by F. Gessi and G. Reni. Next comes the Chapel of the Sacrament (Cappella delSacramento) with three biblical scenes by G. Vasari (1566).Going along the aisle there is a Pieta by Pietro Peruginoone of his late works which was formerly in Santo Agostino. In the tribune, the wooden choir-stalls completed between 1 S26 and 1537 by numerous artists, the most famousbeing Fra Stefano and Fra Damiano from Bergamo. It isone of the finest and most complex of its kind of Lombardhigh Renaissance style. At the rear of the apse a door leadsto a small outdoor area overlooking Assisi and the Umbrianvalley. The decorative paintings in the Sacristy are by ScillaPecennini and Girolamo Danti (1574). The bronze crucifixabove the altar is by A. Algardi. Some of the most important paintings on the walls include the St. John as a childand the Child Jesus by an artist of Perugino's school; theSt. Francesca Romana by Spadarino and four predella panels by Perugino (1496). The Santa Scoiastica is a recentcopy. In another room at the entrance door some interesting illuminated manuscripts concerning the church areon display. Within the vast Convent is the Faculty of Agriculture. Of important artistic interest here is the Great Cloister and another called 'delle stelle designed by G. Alessi(1571). There is a glazed terra-cotta lavabo by B. Buglionifrom Florence (1488) in the Refectory, today the Aula Magna.
Walk 3
MAESTA DELLE VOLTE. Piazza IV Novembre leadsinto this medieval Street,- one of the most suggestive in Perugia. In front is the Oratory of the same name, with afacade by Bino Sozi (second half of the 16th century). Inside is a fresco of the Majesty, called infect 'of the vaults'(Maesta delle Volte), by an Umbrian artist around 1330.Today the fresco is no longer to be found on the wall. Tothe left of the Oratory is a round-headed Gothic arch, partof a once existing church portico. Beyond the houses arethe medieval towers of via Fratti, from which the picturesque lane, via Ritorta, leads into via dei Priori. Back at the Maesta delle Volte, you pass under the arches (there aretraces of the ancient passage, between the stronghold of Porta Sole, later destroyed, and the Priors' Palace, builtby Monmaggiore) which take you to Piazza Cavalotti. Here on the right are the Cathedral's Presybteries and on thecorner of via Baldeschi is the Baldeschi Palace. Now gointo Piazza Morlacchi with the Manzoni Palace, housingthe Faculty of Letters and Philosophy, and shortly after the18th century Morlacchi Theatre by A. Lorenzini, decorated by M. Piervittori. Go down via Cesare Battisti which runsalong the Etruscan wall. Below, the steps of via Appia canbe seen and the narrow passageway of the Old Aqueductlined with quaint little houses. It is the most ancient aqueduct in Perugia, built in 1277 and then restored and reinforced in the 16th century by V. Danti. Behind this is thequarter of Sant'Angelo, a commoners' district during theMiddle Ages.
UNIVERSITA' PER STRANIERI. Continuing downvia Cesare Battisti you come to Piazza Fortebraccio, dominated on the left by the huge Gallenga Palace, todaythe University for Foreigners, once Antinori Palace, is themost eminent monument of the 18th century in Perugia.
Designed by the Roman F. Bianchi, it was accomplishedby the Perugian P. Carattoli (1754).
The inside decorationsare also by P. Carattoli.
ARCO ETRUSCO. The Etruscan Arch, on the otherhand, is one of the most outstanding achievements in architecture that have endured the centuries since the Etruscan civilization. The wide supporting arch is flanked bytwo large towers and covered by a barrel vault with Dorictype Etruscan decorations over the archway of alternatingpilasters and shields. Higher up is a Roman arch, erectedfor unloading purposes. The tower on the left is crownedwith a 16th century loggia. The construction date is muchdisputed, some believe it was built in the 3rd century BCothers the 2nd. The inscription AUGUSTA PERUSIA onthe arched lintel must refer to Augustus' restitution of thecity after the Bellum perusinum.
SANT'AGOSTINO. A short walk up corso Garibalditakes you to the Piazza and Church of Sant'Agostino. Thebuilding was inspired by 13th century monastic architecture with a nave and two aisles and chapels around theapse, like San Francesco in Ascoli Piceno. After having undergone many changes the interior of the church is in late Baroque style realized by Stefano Canzacchi fromAmelia. Of the various paintings kept in the church, notethe frescoes by Pellino di Vannuccio in the second chapelon the left (1377), the Canvases by Arrigo van den Broek,called Arrigo Fiammingo, in the third chapel on the rightand the 14th century frescoes (by Piero di Puccio, AllegrettoNuzi and others) in the chapels around the right arm of thetransept. In the first chapel on the right, by Francesco diGuido di Virio, is a painting of Our Lady of Mercy attributed to Giannicola di Paolo. In the apse large wooden choirstalls by Baccio d'Agnolo (1502-1532). Also in Piazza Sant'Agostino, to the right of the church, is the Oratory of theConfraternity of Sant'Agostino with Baroque wooden panelling and paintings by Bernardino Gagliardi, Giulio Cesare Angeli and Mattia Batini. The painting of the Virginin Glory with Saints is by Raffaellino del Colle (1563). TheConvent of Sant'Agostino with its two large cloisters todayhouses the recruiting centre.
UNIVERSITA' ITALIANA. Returning within the wallstake the street to the right, via Zeffirino Faina. After a shortwalk you arrive at the ex Olivetan Convent, today the Italian University, by C. Murena, while the church is by L. Vanvitelli. The University of Perugia is proud of its ancient history dating back to the 13th century. However it was not officially established until 1307 by Clement V. Since then Perugia has been one of the most famous University townsin Italy. This century has seen the foundation of a University for Foreigners. (1924) which, with its students from allover the world, contributes greatly to the cultural life of thecity and the entire region. Taking via A. Fabretti you comeback to Piazza Fortebraccio.
CHIESA Dl S. MARIA Dl MOf;ITELUCE. The churchhas a white and pink facade typical of the Gothic style foundin Perugia. The twin portal and the rich rose-window standout on the coloured facing. On the right is a squat bell tower. In the interior are some fine frescoes from the late Mannerist period (17th century) and above the altar a copy ofGiulio Romanos Coronation of the Virgin of Monteluce, designed by Raphael and painted by the Roman G. Silvagni.
In a room behind the church are 14th century frescoes fromthe Perugian school. The convent adjoining the church istoday the General Hospital.
WALK 4
VIA DEI PRIOR! - PORTA TRASIMENA - SAN FRANCESCO AL PRATO - ORATORIO Dl SAN BERNARDINO -ACCADEMIA DELLE BELLE ARTI - CHIESA Dl SANPROSPERO - SANTA GIULIANA
ACCADEMIA DELLE BELLE ARTI. Going under thearch between the Oratory and the Church you reach theAccademy of Fine Arts, founded in the second half of the16th century and flourishing between the 1700s and the1800s. The collection of art includes a gallery of paintingswith very important modern pictures (from the 19th century to today); a room with drawings and prints; a beautifullarge gallery of plaster casts from the 16th century, 18thcentury and Neoclassic period (from Michelangelo to Canova), which are partly original.
CHIESA Dl SANTA GIULIANA. Adjoined to a monastery of the Cistercian nuns, the church is similar toothers in Perugia such as S. Maria di Monteluce and theChapel of Sant'Ercolano (next to the Cathedral). In the onenave interior there are important 13th century and 14th century frescoes. In the convent which now houses the military hospital, is a magnificent 14th century cloister attributedto Matteo di Giovannello, called Gattapone, an architectfrom Gubbio. Other frescoes by local artists, between the13th and 14th centuries, are to be found in the variousrooms.
From Santa Giuliana return down via Fiorenzo di Lorenzo to via Pellini again, until you come to via San Giacomo on your right. Going up this street you enter the ancient city through the fine Porta della Mandorla, with Etruscan jambs and an upper arch from the Gothic period. Fromhere a series of picturesque medieval streets lead you back to corso Vannucci.
GALLERIA NAZIONALE DE LL' U M BR IA. The National Gallery of Umbria is the most important arts museumin the region. Amongst its collections there are also masterpieces by other schools, as well as a historicaltopographical section dedicated to the city of Perugia (atpresent - 1984 - the works are being restored and the section is being redecorated). The art gallery originated in 1810with a law promulgated by the Council of Roman Stateswhich abolished religious associations. The works of artthese associations had were assembled on the upper floorof the monastery of Monte Morcino Nuovo (then site of theAccademy of Fine Arts, now the University). Afterwards,following the incorporation into State property decreed bythe Italian state in 1860, the gallery was moved to thechurch of the same monastery, and later (about 1878) tothe third floor of the Priors' Palace where the papal Governor once resided. In the great entrance hall, which waswhere the General Council used to meet, there are frescoesfrom the 12th to the 15th centuries, once belonging to Umbrian churches and convents. Also there is an importantwooden sculpture of Christ taken from the cross, of the socalled "di Tivoli" type with Antelami influences. It comesfrom Roncione near Deruta and dates back to 1236. The first room exhibits works from the first half of the 13th century, including the outstanding Crucifix from the Churchof San Francesco al Prato (1272). Another important painting is the Virgin and Child by Duccio di Buoninsegna from Siena (about 1300). In the small room nearby are reliefsfrom a fountain sculptured by Arnolfo di Cambio which wascompleted four years after the Great Fountain (1281) andis one of the rarest pieces in the museum.
In room Vll are some examples of Renaissance art:the fine polyptych by Fra Angelico and the large polyptychby Piero della Francesca.
The Adoration of the Wise Kings is the masterpieceby the young Pietro, probably still with the collaborationof Pintoricchio. However, the main attraction is the eightpaintings with the Miracles of St. Bernardine, joined witha Banner by Benedetto Bonfigli, dated 1473. Here you cansee the young Pintoricchio, the young Perugino, perhapsBramante and other authors which are difficult to identify.
In rooms XXI works by Doni and the Alfanis, the mostfamous Mannerists of the time. In room XXII, a long corridor called "il tesoro" precious goldsmith's work, ivory objects and bronze statues are displayed in glass cases, Enter the Cappella dei Priori painted by Benedetto Bonfigliwith scenes from the lives of St. Ercolano and St. Ludovico, with an enchanting picture of Perugia in the 15th century. Then room XXIV containing fragmented sculpturesfrom the Chapel of the Maesta delle Volte, exquisite worksby Agostino di Duccio. The Gallery's new wing includesthe large Podiani room (XXVI); with works of the late Mannerism period and the early 17th century, and a spiral staircase leading to numerous smaller rooms which were once the cells of the ancient prison. In these rooms are artstic objects of the 17th and 18th centuries, some exam ples from the topographic museum and agroup of ancient Perugian cloths. Of particular interest are the paintings of the Adoration of the Wise Kings by Arrigo Fiammingo (1564), St. Cecilia with an Angel by Orazio Gentileschi, Nativity of Our Lady and a mystical Weddind of St. Catherine by Pietro da Cortona and a Presentation in the Temple by Andrea Sacchi.
IPOGEO DEI VOLUMNI. This hypogeum is certainly the most beautiful and interesting Etruscan tombs in
the surrounds of Perugia. Situated on the outskirts of Ponte San Giovanni, it was discovered in 1840.
It is a series of underground rooms - alarge atrium, a tablinum (or cell) and eight small side cellsdug
out of tuffstone. In its layout and some of the decorations on the ceiling it resembles the form of a
Roman house.
The exact date of the complex is
uncertain, but it can be approximately traced back to the second century BC.In the tablinum are urns,
five of which are made of travertine stone and one of marble. The most interesting urn isthe one of
the magistrate Aruns Volumnio, head of the family. A statue of the man depicts him sitting on a
deathbed giving up offerings to the gods. Underneath are two'ease, infernal deities guarding the
gates of Hades. Attached to the hypogeum is an important collection of smalurns from the nearby
necropolis of Palazzone and a smallmuseum with the objects discovered in the tomb.
IPOGEO Dl SAN MANNO. At about three kilometres from the Fonteveggi station,not far from via Cortonese, lies the hypogeum of San Manno. It is a large vaulted room of travertine-stone blocks inan architectural style which precedes the 2nd and Ist canfury Roman structures. On the walls is a three line inscription in Etruscan, one of the longest of its kind known toexist. Above the hypogeum (3rd century BC) is a churchrestored in the 16th century, with traces of frescoes fromthe 14th century and a fresco by Scilla Pecennini (1585).
IPOGEO DELLO SPERANDIO. Near-the Villa Sperandio(Porta Sant'Angelo) lies an important Etruscan hypogeum (2nd century BC). You go downabout five metres and enter the vaulted sepolchre dug outof stone. In the large sarcophagus made of travertine wasa skeleton of a woman. The rich archeological finds (gold objects) have been transferred to the Archeological Museum of Florence. An archaic sarcophagus was found inthe necropolis with engravings of a procession of warriors,now displayed in the Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Perugia (6th century BC).